Being able to hear the exact tone you are tuning to, through headphones (I recommend outside noise reducing phones, but the app makers says earbuds are fine), while also hearing your lug taps, is incredibly useful. Once you have a sound dialed in with your settings, a head change down the road shouldn't be as time consuming since each drum and all three frequencies (fundamental, batter, reso) are already stored in the app's database.Īnother great feature is the tone generator and headphone bypass. My favorite, and what appears to be the most relevant, feature, though, is if your drums are already in tune, you can get the fundamental frequency pretty quickly (1-3 taps on the batter with the drum mounted normally) and then fine-tune your batter/reso from there (muffling the side you're not tuning). into the database (I ignored some of these, such as the type of head, as I couldn't find see some of these details are relevant to the tuning process) - it's significantly more time consuming. If you want to get the more in-depth route - adding in each drum, dimension, shell type, name, ply thickness, etc. Fine tuning by ear from here may be beneficial, which is what I tend to do with a Drum Dial anyway. I found that with a few trips around to each lug, it wasn't too difficult to get the lugs within +-1-3 Hz. That said, for fine-tuning each lug, the process is about as quick as using a Drum Dial. This has pretty much been my experience with Drum Dials and the Drum Tuner app - each tap gives a slightly different reading, and the best one can do is approximate. The main downside is the false readings, which required four-five taps sometimes to get an accurate measure in the app (see below for possible reason why). If you want to bypass all of the settings and just use the main frequency read-out to measure each of the lugs, the process is fairly quick. The drums were already in tune for the most part. I don't used any muffling on my drums aside from the towels in my bass drum.I gave this app a trial run yesterday- tuned a snare, rack and floor. I should also point out that when you've gotten pretty good at tuning your drums the way you like and have the right heads on, you should be able to tune them with little to no muffling. I make sure each side is in tune with itself, and put the top head to a high tension and the bottom head to a medium tension. My snare basically tunes itself - it's hard to make it sound bad. From there, I tune both sides evenly until I get the right sound. This helps control the sound, but since I don't have too much stuff in there, you still get a strong, punchy, slightly boomy sound. No pillows, just two pool/shower towels folded up inside. There are overtones, but they sound good - they make it so that the drum's sound is not choked.įor my bass drum I use only a little bit of muffling. This method of putting even tension on both sides gives me a perfect blend of resonance and attack. I go to about 1 - 1.5 turns on each lug and then fine tune it from there. For these, I simply slap my heads on and then get each lug 'finger tight.' For me, I like making sure that the top head and bottom head are tuned to even tensions. You want a good balance of loudness, good overtones, and body/depth to your sound.Įasiest for me are my toms. Keep in mind this is how I tune my set and is not necessarily the right or wrong way to do it.įirst thing you have to realize is that you should not try to be replicating the sounds you hear in recordings - those drums have been miced up and EQ'd and mixed and all that. I know everyone has their own way of tuning their set, but I can try and make a few suggestion for you.
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